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WE turned up looking forward to lollipops or macaroons as usual and instead we were offered dark red martinis and fresh cherries dipped in dark chocolate - still delicious, but immediately indicative of a darker story. Feathered headpieces and bold necklaces — some of which comprised triple gold rings tied at the back with a ribbon in a development of last season's pearls — were gorgeously eye-catching — but for these women their clothes are their business: They will not go and swim on the Cannes beach surrounded by topless women. To the childlike melody of an antique music box, complex sporty-meets-Victoriana ensembles stepped on to the catwalk in colour-blocked layers of pristine white, moving slowly into graphic bursts of abstract print and colour — starting with yellow and seamlessly graduating into grey, pale peppermint, rose and hot pink, cobalt and indigo. You may also like.

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But even if you don't want to believe that "black is back" again, you can't help but appreciate the excellence of these dresses — the first, in fine cashmere, was bunched at one shoulder which somehow gave shape to the rest of the dress, pulled in as it was at the waist with a narrow belt.

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The Endless Succession Question. New York13 September Fundamentalists, extremists, think the beach is for infidels. Paris6 March The high-octane front row appeared particularly roused by the final floor-length numbers - Beyone and Solange Knowles, Chanel ambassador Jen Brill and Kim Kardashian in apparent awe as they took to the floor.

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